[DeTomaso] 351C Questions

[asajay at asajay.com]

Doug,

Thanks for taking a look.  I still need to update the pages since I've
finished the project, and the whole thing is moving to a new server soon
too.

Anyway, to the questions. . .

The sound of the gear drive was at first a bit disconcerting.  It almost
seems to rattle sometimes, but otherwise I like it.  Remember it's sitting
out in -front- of me by about five feet or so instead of right behind my
head.  With that said, you can't hear it in the passenger compartment. 
>From outside though, it sounds just bitchin' enough to make you wonder
what's under the hood.  With the window down, you can hear it whine a bit,
but it's not obnoxious.  I like it.  Some folks liken it to a blower
whine.

I purchased the gear drive from Summit Racing (or JEGS, I forget which for
sure):
Summit:  PJJ-289-9C  (this does not list the 351C though, so I can't be
sure this is the exact right one, I ordered from a physical catalog.)  I
think I paid about $190 at the time (six years ago)

These guys have an actual listing for a 351C:
http://www.dougherbert.com/dualidlergeardrive-p-16979.html?osCsid=050322d6c17fb3d51854c2feda66e0a4
Which indicates the Summit part won't fit.  It may be that I had to call
them.

And here is info I can find on the manufacturer:
Pete Jackson Gear Drives
1207 South Flower Street
Burbank, CA 91502 US
Website:
phone: 323-849-2622
fax: 818-567-0612

I think a true roller is a very good way to go, however it is still
suseptible to stretch.  When the cam gear in the Pantera let loose a few
years back, I replaced it with a true roller set and I'm very happy with
it.  I would certainly at this point use a gear set again; either way
would be a good way to go.  A gear drive is a bit more work to install,
but you get true timing and a neat whine.

The block protector kit is from Summmit:
 SUM-G1796

and I paid about the same price, $60.  I think this is part of that rattle
I mentioned earlier.  I think the thrust bearings are nice but I also
think they allow a bit of slop fore-aft of the cam.  To this date, I can't
say there is any problem with them, and I've not tore into the engine to
inspect them.  My theory was that the bearing set would produce less
friction than a thrust washer, and every bit of friction I could avoid by
using roller parts, was just more horsepower gained.

Next time I'll take better (and more) photos, now that I have a digital
camera.  The photos you see were taken by a 60 year old 35mm camera.  Not
too bad, but film processing is a chore nowdays.

Thanks for letting me know about the link to Daryl's Stang Stable.  He's
changed the host for that site so many times I think I'll just delete it
from the page.  I'm tired of trying to keep up on it.

I've got more photos and text to go along with the C6 tranny build I did. 
You might have read about that experience here on the forum.  I've got
photos I need to upload and write pages for though.

Are you looking to rebuild soon?

Asa Jay


> Asa Jay,
>
> 	Thanks for the 351C engine build info you took the trouble to post on
> your
> website.  Here's a couple of questions about it.
>
> How'd you end up liking the "sound" of your Pete Jackson "silent" cam gear
> drive system?  Where did you get it and what did it cost?  Would you use
> it
> again over a true roller chain timing set?
>
> Has the Torrington roller bearing for the cam thrust washer worked so far.
> Where did you get it and what did it cost?
>
> BTW: The Darryl's Stang Stable link on your website doesn't reach it.
>
> Doug Braun
> blue 73L #5505
> --