[DeTomaso] What caused the Dawg's engine failure at SilverState???

Tue May 30 11:50:24 EDT 2006

When you decide to switch over to a modular motor, let me know.  I'll
take the twin-turbo Cleveland stuff off your hands and find it a good
home!

JB - still looking for a force-fed engine for SS

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]
On Behalf Of Dave Doddek
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 10:10 PM
To: detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: RE: [DeTomaso] What caused the Dawg's engine failure at
SilverState???

When I was off road racing, yes, I would change those things every year.
It is cheap insurance.  Some racers change rings EVERY race.  An SS
racer
may not need a new clutch, but after extended High rpm, the lining can
crack and fracture when you least want it to.

No SS for me in near future.  Hope to be able to come again some day.
When
I do, I would like to go for top speed.  Problably after I install the
1200
hp 5.0 Modular motor.  I am sure the Cleveland will give up sooner or
later.

Dave "The Crazy" D

At 09:51 PM 5/29/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>Crazy Dave,
>
>Do you really change your RINGS, water pump, and Clutch/PP every year?
>
>Are you coming to SS in September?  I hope so.....
>
>JB
>
> 
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
[mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]
>On Behalf Of Dave Doddek
>Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 9:43 PM
>To: detomaso at realbig.com
>Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] What caused the Dawg's engine failure at
>SilverState???
>
>Learn from this, When you race, some things must be changed often.  
>Oil - Every race, 
>Fan Belts - Every year,  
>Hoses - every Year,  
>Coolant (if you run it) - 
>Twice a year,  
>Trans oil - Every 5 raes, 
>Air filter - Every Race,  
>Rings - At least yearly,  
>Water pump and Thermostat - Every year,  
>Clutch/PP - E every year,  etc.  
>
>Remember, racing is expensive if it is to be reliable.
>
>Dave "I have raced, and more than just Silver State" D
>
>At 10:47 AM 5/29/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>>Donny,
>>   
>>  Thanks for the feedback...allot will be answered next week after the
>engine comes apart....I do change the oil of both the engine and ZF
>after
>every ORR run...I have usually run 2-3 degrees retarded on timing for
>WOT
>runs. That combination has been a receipe for consistent success but
>won't
>help when the BELT breaks and the water pumps stops going round and
>round!!!   ;-]>
>>   
>>  The errant "belt" did give me some warning a couple months ago it
>started "squeeking" when the belt/engine was cold.....I pulled the
>engine
>hatch 'twice' to look at the belt and adjust tension although tension
>was
>set perfectly....both times it looked okay. I haven't lost a belt in 20
>years.  I had Drenske look at it and another wrench in another  shop
who
>set timing and rejetted carb just before SS to also check tension and
>check
>the belt.....it looked good....everyone said it looked good and tension
>was
>good and life was good.  So the moral of the story is do NOT listen to
>anyone when your belt starts talking to you. What it was really
>squeeking was;
>>  "I NEED TO BE RETIRED....I DON'T CARE HOW GOOD I LOOK"
>>   
>>  No, not me Donny.....the belt!!!
>>   
>>  MD   
>>Donnylee63 at aol.com wrote:
>>  Doggy-
>>
>>I run 110 leaded in my race car.....This stuff does infact burn alot
>cleaner 
>>then pump varieties with very little soot on the plugs exhaust pipe
>exits. I 
>>am betting your running close to optimum on your jets, but just
>slightly on 
>>the lean side. 
>>
>>The other thing you should file away is race gas requires a little bit
>more 
>>spark lead, and you will likely need to bump your total advance a 3-5
>degree's 
>>to get the same power running the higher octane.... The flame front on
>race 
>>fuel is quite a bit slower then pump gas. I run 40 degrees total in
>that
>drag 
>>Poncho with 12:1 and 110 fuel. For this engine I have played with that
>a
>bunch 
>>and it needs that kind of timing to make the best power with the fuel
I
>am 
>>running.
>>
>>I have seen some of these wise guys with their street cars dump a
bunch
>of 
>>race gas in their street rides only to net them slower ET's because
>they
>made no 
>>other adjustments to run it. And advancing the timing up a bit is the
>key! 
>>That said if you do not need to run it I would not. Its only purpose
is
>to 
>>ensure no detonation problems with a higher compression engine. With
>aluminum 
>>heads at 10:1 I would run premium pump. If your a shade over that then
>the 
>>race fuel may make some sense with your venue. However, if your mixing
>it
>with 
>>pump, I liken that to putting really good whiskey on top of bad
>whiskey...and 
>>what you end up with is watered down whiskey.........
>>
>>If you optimize your engine with one fuel or the other, run it with
>that
>fuel 
>>100% is my reccomendation. Race gas makes no extra power....With the
>same 
>>timing as pump fuel it will make less power. And having your engine
>tuned
>for 
>>Race Fuel and throwing in pump may lead to the likes of detonation
>which
>should 
>>be avoided at all costs! I think you get the drift here.... Bottom
line
>to 
>>answer your question, Yes, Race fuel burns extremely cleaner then pump
>fuel. 
>>Its corrosive stuff! If you have alot of blow by my experience tells
me
>your 
>>Engine oil will take on the smell of the Race Fuel...And for that
>reason you 
>>should be very agressive with the oil changes! (Which I am sure you
>are)
>>
>>
>>Hope that helps my K-9 friend............
>>
>>Donny
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