[DeTomaso] What caused the Dawg's engine failure at SilverState???

Tue May 30 11:08:54 EDT 2006

Kirby,

Lets see, 20,000 miles divided by 90 miles for each ORR = 222 ORR's.
Figure 3 ORR's per year equals 74 years.  So, EVERY 74 years I'll plan
on changing my rod bearings! 

Actually, for most of us slackers that leave our Panteras on jack stands
for a large percentage of their lives, we'd be lucky to drive 20,000
miles maybe every ten years! :)

JB

-----Original Message-----
From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]
On Behalf Of Kirby Schrader
Sent: Tuesday, May 30, 2006 6:02 AM
To: Dave Doddek
Cc: detomaso at realbig.com
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] What caused the Dawg's engine failure at
SilverState???

I would add rod bearings every 20,000 miles if you hammer the hell  
out of it with 'decent' compression.

On 30 May 2006, at 12:43, Dave Doddek wrote:

> Learn from this, When you race, some things must be changed often.
> Oil - Every race,
> Fan Belts - Every year,
> Hoses - every Year,
> Coolant (if you run it) -
> Twice a year,
> Trans oil - Every 5 raes,
> Air filter - Every Race,
> Rings - At least yearly,
> Water pump and Thermostat - Every year,
> Clutch/PP - E every year,  etc.
>
> Remember, racing is expensive if it is to be reliable.
>
> Dave "I have raced, and more than just Silver State" D
>
> At 10:47 AM 5/29/2006 -0700, you wrote:
>> Donny,
>>
>>  Thanks for the feedback...allot will be answered next week after the
> engine comes apart....I do change the oil of both the engine and ZF  
> after
> every ORR run...I have usually run 2-3 degrees retarded on timing  
> for WOT
> runs. That combination has been a receipe for consistent success  
> but won't
> help when the BELT breaks and the water pumps stops going round and
> round!!!   ;-]>
>>
>>  The errant "belt" did give me some warning a couple months ago it
> started "squeeking" when the belt/engine was cold.....I pulled the  
> engine
> hatch 'twice' to look at the belt and adjust tension although  
> tension was
> set perfectly....both times it looked okay. I haven't lost a belt  
> in 20
> years.  I had Drenske look at it and another wrench in another   
> shop who
> set timing and rejetted carb just before SS to also check tension  
> and check
> the belt.....it looked good....everyone said it looked good and  
> tension was
> good and life was good.  So the moral of the story is do NOT listen to
> anyone when your belt starts talking to you. What it was really  
> squeeking was;
>>  "I NEED TO BE RETIRED....I DON'T CARE HOW GOOD I LOOK"
>>
>>  No, not me Donny.....the belt!!!
>>
>>  MD
>> Donnylee63 at aol.com wrote:
>>  Doggy-
>>
>> I run 110 leaded in my race car.....This stuff does infact burn  
>> alot cleaner
>> then pump varieties with very little soot on the plugs exhaust  
>> pipe exits. I
>> am betting your running close to optimum on your jets, but just  
>> slightly on
>> the lean side.
>>
>> The other thing you should file away is race gas requires a little  
>> bit more
>> spark lead, and you will likely need to bump your total advance a 3-5
> degree's
>> to get the same power running the higher octane.... The flame  
>> front on race
>> fuel is quite a bit slower then pump gas. I run 40 degrees total  
>> in that
> drag
>> Poncho with 12:1 and 110 fuel. For this engine I have played with  
>> that a
> bunch
>> and it needs that kind of timing to make the best power with the  
>> fuel I am
>> running.
>>
>> I have seen some of these wise guys with their street cars dump a  
>> bunch of
>> race gas in their street rides only to net them slower ET's  
>> because they
> made no
>> other adjustments to run it. And advancing the timing up a bit is  
>> the key!
>> That said if you do not need to run it I would not. Its only  
>> purpose is to
>> ensure no detonation problems with a higher compression engine. With
> aluminum
>> heads at 10:1 I would run premium pump. If your a shade over that  
>> then the
>> race fuel may make some sense with your venue. However, if your  
>> mixing it
> with
>> pump, I liken that to putting really good whiskey on top of bad
> whiskey...and
>> what you end up with is watered down whiskey.........
>>
>> If you optimize your engine with one fuel or the other, run it  
>> with that
> fuel
>> 100% is my reccomendation. Race gas makes no extra power....With  
>> the same
>> timing as pump fuel it will make less power. And having your  
>> engine tuned
> for
>> Race Fuel and throwing in pump may lead to the likes of detonation  
>> which
> should
>> be avoided at all costs! I think you get the drift here.... Bottom  
>> line to
>> answer your question, Yes, Race fuel burns extremely cleaner then  
>> pump fuel.
>> Its corrosive stuff! If you have alot of blow by my experience  
>> tells me your
>> Engine oil will take on the smell of the Race Fuel...And for that  
>> reason you
>> should be very agressive with the oil changes! (Which I am sure  
>> you are)
>>
>>
>> Hope that helps my K-9 friend............
>>
>> Donny
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