[DeTomaso] What caused the Dawg's engine failure at Silver State???

[Mad Dog Antenucci]

Donny,
   
  Thanks for the feedback...allot will be answered next week after the engine comes apart....I do change the oil of both the engine and ZF after every ORR run...I have usually run 2-3 degrees retarded on timing for WOT runs. That combination has been a receipe for consistent success but won't help when the BELT breaks and the water pumps stops going round and round!!!   ;-]>
   
  The errant "belt" did give me some warning a couple months ago it started "squeeking" when the belt/engine was cold.....I pulled the engine hatch 'twice' to look at the belt and adjust tension although tension was set perfectly....both times it looked okay. I haven't lost a belt in 20 years.  I had Drenske look at it and another wrench in another  shop who set timing and rejetted carb just before SS to also check tension and check the belt.....it looked good....everyone said it looked good and tension was good and life was good.  So the moral of the story is do NOT listen to anyone when your belt starts talking to you. What it was really squeeking was;
  "I NEED TO BE RETIRED....I DON'T CARE HOW GOOD I LOOK"
   
  No, not me Donny.....the belt!!!
   
  MD   
Donnylee63 at aol.com wrote:
  Doggy-

I run 110 leaded in my race car.....This stuff does infact burn alot cleaner 
then pump varieties with very little soot on the plugs exhaust pipe exits. I 
am betting your running close to optimum on your jets, but just slightly on 
the lean side. 

The other thing you should file away is race gas requires a little bit more 
spark lead, and you will likely need to bump your total advance a 3-5 degree's 
to get the same power running the higher octane.... The flame front on race 
fuel is quite a bit slower then pump gas. I run 40 degrees total in that drag 
Poncho with 12:1 and 110 fuel. For this engine I have played with that a bunch 
and it needs that kind of timing to make the best power with the fuel I am 
running.

I have seen some of these wise guys with their street cars dump a bunch of 
race gas in their street rides only to net them slower ET's because they made no 
other adjustments to run it. And advancing the timing up a bit is the key! 
That said if you do not need to run it I would not. Its only purpose is to 
ensure no detonation problems with a higher compression engine. With aluminum 
heads at 10:1 I would run premium pump. If your a shade over that then the 
race fuel may make some sense with your venue. However, if your mixing it with 
pump, I liken that to putting really good whiskey on top of bad whiskey...and 
what you end up with is watered down whiskey.........

If you optimize your engine with one fuel or the other, run it with that fuel 
100% is my reccomendation. Race gas makes no extra power....With the same 
timing as pump fuel it will make less power. And having your engine tuned for 
Race Fuel and throwing in pump may lead to the likes of detonation which should 
be avoided at all costs! I think you get the drift here.... Bottom line to 
answer your question, Yes, Race fuel burns extremely cleaner then pump fuel. 
Its corrosive stuff! If you have alot of blow by my experience tells me your 
Engine oil will take on the smell of the Race Fuel...And for that reason you 
should be very agressive with the oil changes! (Which I am sure you are)


Hope that helps my K-9 friend............

Donny
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