[DeTomaso] RE: [Detonator] Seam Sealer and Paint

[Doug Braun]

Tomas,

	I would normally agree but the bolts that hold the side of the steering
support bracket to the frame rail only have a clamping load of about 25
ft-lbs which a 1/2" battery cable ring tongue terminal is plenty capable of
supporting especially if a hardened washer is used between it and the bolt
head or nut.  The alternatives are to drill another hole in the frame rail
or weld on a stud.  Any of the three choices would work fine if the goal is
to get the cables out of the front trunk area.

Doug Braun
blue 73L #5505

-----Original Message-----
From: Tomas Gunnarsson [mailto:guson at home.se]
Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 12:59 AM
To: Doug Braun; Daniel C Jones
Cc: DeTomaso Forum
Subject: Re: [DeTomaso] RE: [Detonator] Seam Sealer and Paint


I personally like to keep the functions of structural bolts and electrical
bolts separated. The torque you normally want to subject a load carrying
bolt to is way past what the copper connector will cope with.

Tomas

----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Braun" <doug at silicondesigns.com>
To: "Daniel C Jones" <daniel.c.jones2 at gmail.com>
Cc: "DeTomaso Forum" <detomaso at realbig.com>
Sent: den 6 juni 2006 02:39
Subject: [DeTomaso] RE: [Detonator] Seam Sealer and Paint


> Dan,
>
> FEW, most auto body sealers (if that's what you're using), such as em's
> 083XX series, are meant to be painted over.  Check the label or the
> Manufacturer/Supplier to see if the sealer is paintable.  If so, I
recommend
> painting over it.
>
> For your battery ground connection, rather than connecting to one the
> steering rack clamp bolts, connect to one of the steering rack support
> bracket to frame rail bolts because the whole idea is to get a good
> connection to the frame.  You'll also need to change out the type of bolt,
> washers & nut you use for this connection from the stock type because
their
> black oxide treated surface is non-conductive.  Instead, use either plated
> steel or stainless fasteners (I prefer high strength ARP stainless which
are
> now available in metric sizes).  Clean the frame to bare metal where the
> washer you use contacts the frame rail.  I also recommend you lightly coat
> the battery post, the underhead area of the grounding bolt, both washers
and
> the battery cable eyelet with Kop-R-Shield available from Eastwood Co
> http://www.eastwoodco.com/.  When you're all done, test the connection by
> connecting a voltmeter between the negative battery post and a bare metal
> point on the frame rail near your ground connection while someone cranks
the
> engine.  If you see more than 1/4 volt, you haven't done a good enough job
> with the connection.
>
> Doug Braun
> blue 73L #55505
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: detomaso-bounces at realbig.com
> [mailto:detomaso-bounces at realbig.com]On Behalf Of Daniel C Jones
> Sent: Monday, June 05, 2006 3:26 PM
> To: DeTomaso Forum
> Subject: [DeTomaso] Seam Sealer and Paint
>
> Okay, I removed the brake booster and prop valve and have
> stripped the front trunk to bare metal.  Should I paint
> the trunk first then put seam sealer over that or put the
> seam sealer over the bare metal and paint over that.
>
> Had to open up the hole the positive cable goes through
> to pull the cable into the car.  Then I cut a hole in
> the interior to route the cable to the dropped battery
> box.  I ran the ground cable down to one of the steering
> rack mount bolts.
>
> Dan Jones
>
>
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