[DeTomaso] 10 Quart Oil Pan & Removeable X-Member

[Tom Di Iulio]

1.  Is there a step by step guide available to do this? 

Nope, just take your trusty sawzall and cut the original crossmember out
or use an air chisel and attack the welds. You'll find the side with the
most oil leaked on to it over the years comes off faster. An air chisel
worked best for me and left a pretty clean surface behind. 
Then mount the new removable member with "nut serts" (spelling?). they
are basically threaded inserts that fit the hole you'll drill to install
them. I got all my components from dennis quella at pantera performance
center. It all worked as advertised. 

2.  Are there alternatives to the oil pan gasket ( including brands )
that
are superior?

Whatever type you end up with, you'll still want to add extra rtv
sealant in the corners where the front of the pan seals around the main
bearing. You can buy hi temp clear which looks good even if some goops
out after. 

3.  Is there a drawing of the E Brqke bracket that must be
removed-changed,

You'll be removing the original bracket with the same tools you used for
the crossmember. Then buy the removable bracket from PPC or any of the
vendors. It's already made to fit. Intall with nut serts.

6.  If I'm not smoking, is it really worth pulling the bearings out to
have
a look?

That depends on the mileage and how the engine has been run since the
bearings were installed. Bad bearings will not produce smoke, they'll
just ruin your crank and rods. Smoking will most likely come from worn
piston rings or cylinders, worn valve guides or seals, etc. if there's
not a lot of mileage and the engine's running okay, don't fix what ain't
broke. 

7. Anything I left out?

Changing the crossmember and e brake bracket can be done with the engine
in the car but it's a whole lot easier and cleaner with the engine out.
Not sure that's what you want to hear but there it is. 

I was told that this was about a 2.5 hour job if one were alone on the
garage floor.

It'll take you 2.5hrs to stop crying after getting all that steel dust
in your eyes after using the air tools or sawzall. I'm not sure I could
do it in that time. I just did it last August, and that was with the car
up on a lift AND the engine out. With the engine in place, your job just
got a bunch longer. 

So if I were at a shop with a proper lift, any guesstimates?

Much faster and MUCH safer. 

If you need help via phone once you're in to it, call. 
Tom Di Iulio
303-346-1051